Boss finds cohesiveness in post-Jason Wu era
When it was announced last season that Jason Wu had done his final
collection for Hugo Boss, there was concern over what that would mean for
the brand’s elevated womenswear line. The menswear collections have been
going strong under designer Ingo Wilts, but there was wonder over how he
would handle the task of both the men’s and women’s line. At New York
Fashion Week, Wilts proved that he could handle it all, and create a
cohesive line for Hugo Boss that brought true uniformity to the brand.
Inspired by California, coastal cities and houses overlooking the Pacific
Ocean, the collection found a balance between breezy ocean life and the
beauty of metropolis areas. Although Boss is iconic for their suits and
tailoring, they are interested in a new customer. They are younger, into a
more relaxed fit, and aren’t necessarily as corporate.
Ingo Wilts ushers Boss into a new era
From the first look, a knit dress with a trench, it was evident that Boss
wasn’t sticking to their same old guns anymore. They were born new, and
Wilts made a statement about his ability to take on a women’s collection
that would get people’s attention.
The tailoring wasn’t completely amiss however, as it is part of the Boss
brand DNA. Rather, it took on a more approachable fit with softened
structures, airy fabrics and easygoing textures.
Suits were crafted from crinkled cotton, and paper-touch cloth, but were
made more relaxed for summer with softened structures, and meticulous
pleats were done on skirts. The new Boss code is Sports Tailoring. This
season, surfboard stripes were reimagined as appliqués on tailored jackets,
dresses and outerwear.
Let’s not forget about accessories either. Bucket bags and pouches were
done in super-soft leather, fastened with drawstrings. As an ode to the
California sunshine, wide-brim hats and colored sunglasses helped complete
To anyone who had a single doubt in their mind about Wilts’ skills to bring
the whole Hugo Boss collection under one umbrella, they were proven wrong.
This collection married men’s and women’s in fashion matrimony, ushering
Boss into its next era.
photos: courtesy of Boss