Calvin Klein puts ‘Jaws’ bite into NY Fashion Week
Calvin Klein took a bite out of the New
York runway Tuesday with Belgian designer Raf Simons inspired by “Jaws,” in
his latest exploration of America, its glistening surface and dark
Models marched down a red-carpeted runway against a glittering video
seascape backdrop — all bobbing yachts, sun bouncing off gentle waves and
swimmer coming into view.
Suddenly the summer idyll was shattered with the menacing chords of
theme music to the 1975 Steven Spielberg blockbuster, more than 40 years on
perhaps still America’s most iconic summer horror flick.
Models emerged as if straight from the ocean, with wet strands of
beads of water glistening on their skin and dressed in wet suits, both long
and cropped, the “Jaws” metaphor labored in shark-bite-style slashes on the
hemlines of delicately pleated skirts.
“Jaws” imagery was printed on singlet T-shirts, as the soundtrack to
show flitted from the menacing to the sunny, taking in “Suspicious Minds”
along the way and closing with “Scarborough Fair.”
Simons moved to Calvin Klein two years ago and has been credited with
giving the iconic American label renewed relevancy, his collections diving
deep into the good, the bad and the ugly of the United States.
“The landscape of America — literal and psychological — inspires
Klein. A journey through America leads, inevitably, to the edge of the
landscape: the beach,” Simons wrote in notes for the show.
“At the beach there is this incredible idea of beauty, but also a
— between land and ocean, a feeling of two worlds meeting, maybe
“There’s a sense of the unexpected — and always, a temptation. For
Jaws perfectly exemplifies these notions.”
Hints at a savage world were teased out with plenty of animal print in
reds, greens and yellows paired with black, and fringed, almost-tribal
clip-on chest adornments.
Contrast came from the school’s out look — Cindy Crawford’s
daughter Kaia Gerber walking down the runway in a blazer and black mortar
board — a nod to movie “The Graduate.”
“Like the film, this collection explores taboos and temptations,
culture and community, but ultimately, the overarching theme is love,”
He ran out at the end, blowing kisses to cheers and warm applause for
mens and womenswear 205W39NYC Spring 2019 collection from those in the
including the actor Jake Gyllenhaal.
Disney and Santa Fe
Coach transported the fashion pack to an alien-like mise-en-scene
for a spring/summer 2019 collection of prairie-style skirts and fringed
jackets inspired by Sante Fe and Georgia O’Keeffe.
It was British creative designer Stuart Vevers’s latest outing for
77-year-old US leather goods brand, which has only relatively recently
into ready-to-wear, with muse Selena Gomez, 26, front row.
His spring vision stayed true to Vevers’s fascination with the Wild
with peasant-style loose frocks paired with slashed and fringed suede
and ruffled blouses.
There were also hoodies and T-shirts featuring pictures from that other
pillar of US popular entertainment: Disney movies.
The set was something out of 1982 science fiction movie “Blade
a dinosaur skeleton-style metal sculpture, and a rusted-out Volkswagen
giving Vevers his trademark contrast between outback and urban grit.
The designer, who has been at Coach since 2013, summed it up as
and reconstructing the craft and spirit of the American look,” and
and salved American heirlooms.”
Too cool for school
“A fashion show can feel quite stale. We want to make it exciting,”
Patric DiCaprio, one of the designers at up-and-coming New York label
“Humor is very, very important in our collections.”
The independent brand founded in 2013 and feted for its originality
vampires and zombies take over a Manhattan high school with an erotic,
gender-bending and humorous take on style.
Closing with a fantasy graduation dress in electric blue with crinoline
Bo Peep-style hat, the show embodied the creative maxim that the catwalk is
about art and not necessarily about the shop rack.
“The wearable pieces get sold because the unwearable pieces exist,”
explained designer Claire Sully.
Relatives, friends and high schoolers, brimming with personality, were
among the models, and students were invited to watch.(AFP)
Photos: Calvin Klein SS19, NYFW, CatwalkPictures