In Milan, Antonio Marras’ fauvist collection draws from migration
Italian designer Antonio Marras unleashed a
procession of fauvist travellers on the catwalk Friday in a collection
dedicated to “those how have still not left and those who are forced to leave.”
Models wore animal skin motifs from around the world, mingled with delicate
translucent fabrics as they walked through a series of wooden doorways
resembling airport metal detectors, on the third day of Milan Fashion Week.
Enormous hats with plants or butterflies sprouting from them could barely
fit through the doorways in a collection dedicated also to French 19th century
poet Arthur Rimbaud: “The man with wind beneath his feet.”
Referencing migration but also Italy’s ill-fated 1930s occupation of
Ethiopia, the famously experimental and theatrical designer used emotive soul
music to heighten the experience.
Models wore geographically distinctive dresses and jackets, south east
Asian inspired hats, African animal prints and even a nod to US high-school
Hats resembled those worn by beekeepers for protection, while cheetah and
snake skin patterns mingled with gracefully sown flowers.
At the climax of a heavily symbolic presentation, a group of men wearing
only white Y-fronts with army boots tied around their necks stumbled through
the same door frames, embracing each other before cleansing themselves under a
shower of white sand.(AFP)