Kenneth Nicholson presents "Lover From the Bath" at NYFW: Men’s
Men’s style hasn’t always been so restrictive, and designer Kenneth
Nicholson wants to go back to that. For his spring/summer 2019 collection,
the designer presented a collection that took us through three chapters:
The Bath, Reminiscence, and The Funeral. Inspired by 18th century dress
with some seventies thrown in, the collection was a reminder that ruffles,
dresses, and tights were not always considered just part of the feminine or
for women, but were everyday for men too.
Nicholson attempted to push the boundaries of menswear toward the future by
looking back at history. This was evident with the opening look of a pair
of white tights, an item that would have been standard for a court jester
in 18th century Europe. Lace trims on collars and sleeves were also seen on
shirts, but rather than giving the “fashion has no gender” effect many
designers have been going for, they had a classic feeling like something
out of a period piece.
The first chapter of the collection, “The Bath” was almost all white with
the intention of conveying sadness by leaving everything void of color. For
Reminiscence, Nicholson took us out of the 18th Century and brought us to
the seventies with vertical striped shirts and denim shirts. He added his
own twist to these with details like rhinestone buttons.
The concluding looks were all black, respectfully so with The Funeral
theme. A nearly ankle length black coat had an almost grim reaper like feel
to it. Lace still played a big part in the details here, adorning cuffs,
collars, and necklines.
While Nicholson is still finding himself as a new designer, he seems to
understand the idea of a cohesive collection, and how to make sure each
piece has part of his brand DNA, like lace and rhinestone buttons. It will
be interesting to see where the designer goes next, but he’s off to a fresh
photos: Rudy K/SIPA Press Paris