Nicholas Kirkwood collaborates with Hannah Lees
Footwear and accessories designer Nicholas Kirkwood has announced that
he is collaborating with British artist Hannah Lees on his new
autumn/winter 2018 collection, as part of his ‘Nicholas Kirkwood presents’
series of creative partnerships.
The creative pop-up collaborations were launched in the brand’s flagship
London boutique on Mount Street in October 2017, and have seen the Mayfair
store transformed by artist Haroon Mirza and , and
next up is British artist Hannah Lees, who uses natural vegetable dyes to
create transfigured textures on silk that give the appearance of a
deconstruction and natural decay of the original materials.
For Kirkwood’s autumn/winter 2018 collection ‘Imperfect Tension’, he has
created a new mule group, the ‘Courtney’ with Lees, which features a
printed silk fabric scrunchie upper and a plexiglass heel, which comes in a
variety of colours including black, white, lime and lavender.
The Courtney features “transfigured texture prints” created by Lee,
which she creates using a process she terms “pickling’, where silk cloths
were bundled-up with organic matter, such as eucalyptus leaves, annatto
seeds, koji red rice and onion skins, and then placed in a jar with some
ash and vinegar and water, sometimes with a copper penny or aluminium foil
and then sealed.
The jars are left for a 3 to 4 month period while the fabrics
pickle. The process is then often repeated using the same cloth several
times to achieve the desired effect, sometimes taking the artist a year to
reach the finished state, which was digitally printed on to the silk used
to make the scrunchie detailing.
To coincide with the collaboration, Lees has also created a mural
painting directly on to the walls, floor and furniture in the ‘Nicholas
Kirkwood Presents…’ space. The ‘paint’ used for the mural is formed of
natural ‘wine lees’, leftover yeast particles from autolysis which is the
self-destruction of yeast cells by enzymes created from fermentation. To
complete the installation the pickled cloths used to create the digital
prints for the Courtney mules are framed and hung on the walls of the
Images: courtesy of Nicholas Kirkwood